Trad Climbing

Bored of climbing the same routes over and over again? Want to push yourself and take your climbing to another level? There has never been a better time to get into rock climbing, more specifically Trad, short for traditional, climbing. Trad climbing is a form of climbing where the climber places their own protection or "gear", such as nuts and cams, as they climb to protect against falls. It is usually done in pairs or groups, with someone to "belay" or protect, the person climbing but can also be done solo with the right gear.

 

While technically more dangerous than sport or indoor climbing, it is far less damaging to the environment with climbers often t is a much slower, more methodical form of climbing as you have to make sure you are safely locked in before you move on. Gear is usually placed at regular spacing so if and when you fall, you don't have far to fall before your gear catches you. Often preferred by climbers looking to explore more and those who like the ethics of "leaving no trace", pioneered by Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard and many others since. It offers greater freedom as you are not restricted by pre-determined routes and with the right gear, any rock face can be conquered so the options of where to go climbing are endless. 

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Trad climbing (short for "traditional") involves climbers placing removable protection (e.g., cams, nuts, hexes) into cracks or features as they ascend, which is later removed by the second climber. Unlike sport climbing, which uses pre-drilled bolts, trad requires climbers to assess gear placements, increasing mental and technical demands. It prioritises self-sufficiency and leaves minimal environmental impact.

Yes, trad climbing is generally harder due to its mental complexity (e.g., gear placement, route-finding) and higher risk if protection fails. However, sport climbing routes often have higher technical grades (e.g., 5.15a vs. 5.14d for trad) because climbers focus purely on movement without gear concerns. Trad’s difficulty lies in balancing physical skill with strategic decision-making.

The hardest trad climb is Jacopo Larcher’s Tribe, considered the first 9a (5.14d) trad route. Other notable ascents include Beth Rodden’s Meltdown and Dave MacLeod’s Rhapsody (both 5.14c). Trad grades rarely exceed 5.14 due to the added challenge of placing gear mid-crux.

No. Free climbing is an umbrella term for climbing using hands/feet on rock, with ropes only for safety (not upward progress). Trad climbing is a subset of free climbing where climbers place removable gear. Sport climbing is another free-climbing style using pre-placed bolts.

Yes, but it’s highly risky and requires advanced skills. Solo trad climbers must place gear while leading (no second climber to remove it) and use techniques like rope soloing or aid climbing for safety. Most trad climbers use a partner to belay and remove gear, reducing fall risks.


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